Mumbai Days

India's New York does sleep. But not much. Throughout the day you hear the incessant toots of horns as cars weave through the city traffic. Sometimes the horn means 'I want to pass' other times 'Watch out!' though with our group it sometimes seems to mean 'Hey, look! White people!' I find my new celebrity troublesome though somewhat endearing.

The past few days have been packed with trying to get the most out of Maharastra, the state which Mumbai is the capital. Most locals seem to call it Bombay. Unbeknownst to me the city was formerly a series of seven islands until a massive land fill by the British made them into one peninsula. The city is not very old, no more than 200 years, but it has attracted the largest population of any city in India. It embodies the Golden Opportunity that so many people are looking for. And apparently some find it.

Tuesday morning found us on a plane to Aurangabad, the seat of government for the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. After a two hour bus ride spent dodging cows, cars, buffalo, and buses we arrived at the ancient rock-hewn temples of Ajanta. These are Buddhist temples and monastic sites that were literally carved out of volcanic cliffs. Devotion took on a new meaning to me. My work at Odiyan was put in better appreciation. I could only imagine someone appreciating my work a few thousand years from now in California the same way I did for the Ajanta workers. This morning we drove to the west side of Aurangabad to the Ellora caves, a collection of Jain, Buddhist and Hindu temples. Unlike the Ajanta caves these were carved from the mountain and had a much gentler slope allowing for great courtyards. The pinnacle of the Ellora caves is the Kailasa Temple, dedicating the Hindu deity Shiva, the Destroyer. The temple was cut 80 meters back into the rock and 50 meters down. Estimates gauge 200K tons of rock were removed to build it.

Tomorrow we shall reach our home base of Chennai, at Madras Christian College. All seems well with me and my companions. I have yet to get sick and am adjusted to the time change. Hope all is well.

A Warm Arrival

The heat here is all pervading. Though not quite as oppressive as I expected, I nevertheless have been warmer than usual.

We arrived last night in Mumbai after a long flight beginning in Newark. The flight was not very full, allowing us to spread out and get some sleep. Otherwise it was unremarkable trip. Just long. As soon as our group left the airport I could feel all the eyes on us. We have walked around a bit this morning, drawing attention every inch of the way. We certainly stick out.

It's easy to see how people can easily draw judgement on this country. It's got nothing to hide. Poverty confronts you as soon as you land with shantytowns lined up only a few yards away from the runway. Opulence abounds in the architecture. Trash lines the curb, and grime is ubiquitous. Beautiful large trees line the sidewalk and break the concrete with their roots.

A child immediately approached Alex and I this morning as we left the hotel. Before he said a word you could see his thumb rubbing his fingers asking for rupees. For some reason the word urchin flashed in my head. Alex gave him a five-piece that I provided. These interactions will no doubt happen frequently for the next four months, but I don't know if I'll grow any more accustomed to it.